
I, Melachi ibn Amillar, being of unsound mind and body, did stay at "Lord the Provider Joyland Lodge" on Mfangano Island, on Lake Victoria, Kenya, in February 2014. It is located a few steps from the port of Sena, or, rather, the place where the little boats to Mbita stop. Behind the dining room/lounge, a dozen cells lie around a small courtyard on which goats may graze, at KES 500 (£3) a night including breakfast (egg and chapatis); each with its own facilities, albeit a la turk. There is a net, though I heard only a few mosquitoes. When the main water tank is empty they will give you a large basin of water for ablutions, and the flushing. Water for drinking can be bought. A meal is KES 150 (£1) and not bad for those who like ugale, though portions are on the small side. I can reveal the fish is the best, as one might expect. Service is friendly though the family are rather shy. They have an always-on TV with satellite connection, and one might have joined them in watching, I think, a sequel to "Jurassic Park" (in English). The hotel does not serve beer, but there is a bar across the "road", of a hut of corrugated iron (as are all the buildings in the "town"), where a man serves beer and mobile phone or lottery tickets from a curious cage; a television is there also, itself behind bars, and a rather loud stereo system that will also entertain you in your bed of an evening. I confess I found this bar a little odd and did not imbibe.


Mfangano itself is an agricultural island of myriads of children endlessly walking to and from school, pointing and crying "Mzungu!" (which means, I understand, "O wielder of the white magicks!"), interspersed with occasional sturdy motorcycles. I was interacted with by Emmanuel, seeking support for his orphanage, who showed me the local fishing village. I did not see a single car or truck. But there is, finally, not much to do there, so I sought to leave, which took more than a morning due to the uncertain schedules of the little boats, though I could watch for them from the hotel, sipping colas and listening to the dinosaurs.
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